Jenny Erikson has an insightful piece about taking care of the second-most expensive purchase most of us will ever make – our cars. At the end, she asked for other car care tips in the comments. I realized mine were too long for a comment, so here are just a few basics in addition to what she suggests.
- If you notice that your blinker seems to be running double-time, chances are one of your turn signal lights is out. The double-time blinking speed is supposed to tell you this. Unfortunately, very few people know this.
- If you notice that one headlight is working great, but the other one is very dim, chances are you have a blown fuse for the circuit that feeds the dimmed headlight.
- Jack rabbit starts and hard stops (slamming the gas or the brake) wastes fuel and is very hard on your car.
- Next time you get into your car (or go to drive someone else’s), look near the fuel gauge for a small triangle pointing to the left or right. Not all cars have it, but the for ones that do, the triangle will point to which side the fuel fill cap is on.
- When you fill up, reset your trip meter. Note what it says the next time you fill up. Do this every time. You’ll start to get an idea of how far you can go on a tank of gas. If you fuel gauge ever breaks, you’ll still know when you need to fill up. This is also a way to keep track of your gas mileage. # miles driven divided by # of gallons printed on your gas receipt.
- On cold days (below freezing), give your car a couple of minutes to warm up before leaving, especially if you’re getting right onto the freeway. Oil, especially conventional oil, gets thick when it gets cold and can’t lubricate the engine as well. More than a couple of minutes really won’t make that much difference, and will just waste fuel.
- Modern engines are much better designed than they used to be. Changing your oil every 3,000 miles on the dot won’t hurt much except your wallet. 5,000 miles is perfectly fine for normal driving. If you drive dirt roads or other harsh conditions (extreme heat especially), then it might be worth it for the life of your engine to stick to 3,000 miles. Synthetic oil is more expensive, but it isn’t unheard of – if you’re using synthetic oil – to go 9,000 or 10,000 miles between oil changes with no ill effects. Why change the oil in the first place? The oil lubricates the moving bits of your engine. This lubrication wears out and breaks down over time, becoming less effective. The oil also absorbs dirt, debris, and other foreign matter from between the moving parts of your engine. Basically – it helps keep the inside of the engine clean and free from contaminants that could cause damage to the moving parts. At some point the oil becomes saturated with dirt and can’t absorb anymore. That is also the reason why you always change the filter when you change the oil.
- Fix-a-flat and other similar “emergency” tire-repair-in-a-can are just that – for emergencies. Get to a place that can fix or replace your tire as quickly as possible. First off, that stuff is not a permanent fix, and secondly it unbalances your wheel, which will affect handling slightly but will definitely cause your tire to wear poorly. Make sure the shop knows you used the can of stuff so they can unmount the tire and clean the crud you just pumped in off the wheel.
- When using jumper cables, be very careful. Always connect red to red, black to black. On the car that you’re trying to jump start, connect the black to some metal away from the battery. A charging car battery can release hydrogen and other gases. A spark can ignite the hydrogen gas and lead to a fire or explosion. Moving the black (negative) away from the battery helps reduce the chance of a spark near the battery. What are the odds? Probably not very high, especially with modern sealed batteries. Why risk it?
- Don’t run your car out of gas.
- Once or twice won’t hurt, but doing this repeatedly will burn up the fuel pump, which on most vehicles is inside the fuel tank. Gasoline acts as a coolant for the pump. When the level in the tank gets too low (ie the engine stops because you ran out of usable fuel), the pump doesn’t have proper cooling. This could be an expensive repair.
- It is unsafe to run around with less than ~1/8 tank of gas or so. If your car quits in the middle of the freeway you lose critical assist systems for brakes and steering. You can still brake, you can still steer but both are much more difficult without the power of the engine to drive the assist systems. You can also find yourself stranded. Especially don’t do this to anyone driving with you. As the driver, you’re responsible for your passengers. Don’t strand them because you’re a lazy bonehead.
- When the “fuel low” light comes on, you have between 1 and 2 gallons of usable fuel remaining. If you know your average per-gallon fuel mileage, you know approximately how far you can go before the engine quits. We want to fill up before then, see previous bullet.
- Oil is the life blood of your engine. If the oil pressure light comes on, pull over with all due haste and turn off the engine. Obviously, do so only if it safe – don’t dart across traffic and cause a collision. If you completely lose oil pressure (which includes running your car out of oil), your engine has about 3-5 seconds before it starts tearing itself apart as metal bits start grinding on other metal bits. Eventually that grinding will stop because the engine has seized. That is, the moving bits inside the engine? They don’t move anymore. This is probably the most expensive damage you can do to your car.
- If your car overheats, you can turn on the cabin heater to help cool it off. It won’t help much, but it may be the difference between getting it to a shop and ruining the engine. Overheating an engine can and will have the same effect as losing oil pressure. It will just take a little bit longer to destroy the engine.
- Don’t neglect your brakes. They are the only device you have for bringing 2,000lb of steel to a stop. Every time you stop, you’re grinding off just a little bit of brake pad material. That is just how brakes work. If your brakes are squealing, they’re probably telling you that they’re getting worn out. No really, there is a thin piece of metal inside your brakes that is supposed to make noise when they’re worn down.